"The remote input current for amplifiers varies with the amplifier and the model. i was just going to splice a wire and use that, since i dont have a designated wire for turn on lead. It runs from the remote turn-on lead at the back of your receiver to the remote terminal on the amp. I didn't try piggy backing the wire from one amp and then from that amp to the other amp. the relay does not power the amps. One wire is for the power antenna, and the other is the amp turn-on lead. IIRC, either Sony or JVC (can't remember which) 2 separate blue wires. the relay is only used for the small remote turn on wire. Not likely. I need to run turn on leads to both amps. The first applies if you want to connect multiple amplifiers to a single speaker or pair of speakers, and use only one amp at a time. You can cut the remote AMP turn-on wire, but not the main power wire, add an extra length of remote wire, solder them and heat shrink it to protect and seal your wires. then you just turn off the power invertor to turn it off (not suggested). It looked kind of funky, but it should have been a good connection, or at least I thought. The remote turn-on wire usually comes from the radio, in which case your amplifier won't turn on if the radio isn't on. Technical & Advanced Car Audio Discussion, IDQ12D2v3/Dyn MW160/Lotus RM110/Seas neo Alum, http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/relay_basics.htm, ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Manuals/Accessories/TiDD10_TDD5_Manual.PDF, System Design: Help Me Choose Equipment For My Car, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. With the ignition in the OFF position, there should be no voltage. The higher wattage amp most likely to shut off. the blue/white off of your alpine is a low current (.1 or .3 amp) 12 volt turn on lead that is made as a turn on switch for an amp. Today I took the original turn on lead, and a second wire and attempted to splice them together by wrapping the wires around each other, and then soldered them together. the remote wire purpose is to signal to the amp to turn on or off , via voltage signal. Well I got it wired up and it works like a champ. The signal sensing does turn it on but when I turn the radio off the amp turns off and on and doesnt stop turning off and on. If you haven't done it already, I highly recommend this: 20-pin combined wiring Harness for Subaru Impreza, Forester, Legacy, Outback, Tribeca It is a breakout harness that goes in between the car side connector and the head unit connector. Got 30' of 16 gauge cheapo wire for $3. Be sure the positive lead is touching the wire strands inside the jacket of the remote turn on wire. Now, I am installing a second amp. Locate the remote turn-on lead behind your radio (usually a blue and white wire), and connect the turn-on lead from your amplifier wiring kit to it. The blue wire coming off your amp is the remote turn on lead, connect that to the blue/white wire coming off of your alpine hu, which is your remote turn on lead. The turn-on lead from your HU (head unit) will power two amps, no problem. It could be an insufficient power supply instead and so a relay would be needed. i put money on bad ground or voltage drop. My last big stereo had two amps and two fans connected to the remote out. When I connect the REM turn-on wire (2 REM wire from amp, to 1 wire from the head unit), 1 will work but the other shuts-off. you can pick up a relay at your local Radio Shack or on partsexpress. The upper limit of a properly functioning amplifier is approximately 50ma (0.05 amps). so this will work. You need to be more detailed. ive had good luck with both. What if I'm just running 2 amps, 1 for front and rear and the other for sub? BTW I found the best surpluss store where I got the realy from today for only $1.50. And yes, just tap in and you run it to the amp's remote turn on. If I need a relay, where would I get one? Apparently mine is not sending a big enough signal when I turn on the stereo so my amps aren't turning on. Some draw minimal current. I'm running 2 amps and a crossover off my head unit. While in the ON position, there should be 12+ volts at the remote turn on wire. As it is I can't really understand your post. the remote wire is for powering on the amp. In the trunk, you split that piece of 4-gauge w/a fused distribution block to the amps. That, wtf? Even my 2000 Iimpala has an OEM amp If your radio don't have Remote lead. Although that could be the problem, you wouldn't know because you didn't test each wire end one at a time to the same amp while the wires were still connected. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I turned the key on, and neither amp came to life. Come join the discussion about capacitors, amplifiers, subwoofers, marine and automotive audio, troubleshooting, and more! I run 6 amps off of the eclipse remote turn on w/o any problems. Then piggy back the 2nd piece of wire to the 2nd amp. well, i have a stock deck for right now and need to know something, with all the cables leading into the back of my deck, will any of the blue wires work for attaching my remote turn on lead? If you're using/controlling more than 2 amplifiers, it is (in my opinion) much better to use a relay to control the amplifiers. Ok, I have a problem. That's about as clear as I can explain it, hopefully that helps. Or you didn't check continuity with a meter. If the remote turn-on wire doesn't have power, your amp won't turn on. Once turned on, the amp has to be hooked up a particular way. What brand of stereo do you have? Neither amp turned on when power was applied. This time, it turned on, so my attempt failed at some point. An Amplifier on the stock radio.. There should be a fuse (equal or greater than the combined rating of fuses on the amps) no farther than 18 inches from the + battery terminal. It is showing less than 1 volt. Connect terminal #85 to ground, terminal #86 to one of your 4 ends of the remote turn on wire from the head unit, and terminal #30 to The amp that will be switched by the relayed signal (this line, coming from the relay to your amp, is were you will add your toggle switch). I will be putting in a relay soon. I run 4 amps and have never had ANY problems for 5 years now. I need to run turn on leads to both amps. Anymore than that, you will need a relay. Where would you put a relay? It doesn't need to be as thick as the power and ground wires (18 gauge should be fine). The second and third apply when you want to connect two or more amplifiers to your system and use them at the same time, each amp powering a different set of speakers, with one of them usually used for a subwoofer. I cuurently have the remote lead from my deck to the Nak amp, then from there  to the MTX amp. The remote wire acts essentially like your finger flicking a switch, where your finger is battery power, and the switch is a mechanism inside the amplifier. I didn't think to use the multimeter to test the voltage from each end....I'm still learning the electrical side of this. In using the relay to switch on my 3 amps, BLA and SXRC I should do the following: doesnt matter either way will work depends on who you ask. Meter the switch lead at each amp. please correct my impression, if im wrong. I will try a new connection tomorrow, and see what happens. I am running two different amplifiers in my car. the remote wire is usually between 18-12gauge does pull minimal 5-10amp , reason why remote wires are usually not very big in gauge . Today I took the original turn on lead, and a second wire and attempted to splice them together by wrapping the wires around each other, and then soldered them together. Then connect each half of the cut remote wire to each of the 2 connections on a toggle switch. All amplifiers in the system will need a 12 volt signal that let’s them know when to turn on. Thanks for the links Bodega, I have the PG TiDD10 & TDD5 for my system & LOVE it. A forum community dedicated to all mobile audio enthusiasts. Aftermarket head units provide this but it is recommended that you do not connect more than 1-2 components directly to it. So I put a toggle switch up front, ran one wire to power, and the other wire to where the remote wire is suppose to be anyway. This is because a head unit turn on … as i haven't seen a relay before... aside from being able to power up devices with little current, it also acts like a power distro block? So, it was my splicing job that was at fault. If you can't find a remote wire from the HU, You can use a switch. If you experiencing problems aside from this you may consider a grounding problem. You just have to make sure you turn your switch off when you get out of the vehicle. If it gives you trouble, then use a relay. Don't make the same mistake yourself with car audio amp turn on leads and power antenna outputs, See how the 2 interact very differently. 1) Bad turn on lead coming out of your HU 2) Amp needs more current than normal to turn on (less likely) 3) Turn on wire has a kink or bad connection somewhere along the run Most remote turn on wires can provide at least 150mA of current for turn on purposes, enough to turn on at least 2 or 3 amps as each amp takes only a few tens of mA to turn on. Sorry for all the questions. Others draw a little more. I've had 1 power acoustik and 2 different Pioneer amps, neither drew more than .2 amps. The last wire you need for powering the amp is a turn-on lead. Watch as Allyn of Sonic Electronix explains how to turn on your amp if you have a factory stereo without remote wire. So, it was my splicing job that was at fault. The two isolated transformers inside the Little Dual take care of the ground hum normally caused by using two amps. If you still have the amp … personally i dont think that was the issue. I cut out my splice and butt connected the wire into a single wire again, and connected it to one of the amps. If it has one, there will be a bridging switch to enable it. Daisy chain the remote turn on, relay, or just crimp both to the (blue/white wire) remote lead on the hu? You should be OK turning on two amps with one remote wire. One is 1000w max (300 RMS x 2 @ 4ohms) and the other is 300w max (50 RMS x 2 @ 4ohms). speakers wires makes a difference. Using a clarion cz702 to an alpine mrx f65 and alpine mrx m110. if you supply it with any 12v+ the amp should work. I had run a single remote turn on wire from the head unit to the amplifier and all was well. I would wire in a switch on the wire you inserted between the power input and remote, so you can turn it on once the invertor is powerd up. I'm probably just an idiot, but I am having issues getting my single turn on lead split into two for the two amps. Yes that's the one. I ran one end to one amp and the other end to the other amp. I need a remote signal to turn the amp on when the ignition goes on... FYI - don't use the lead fromt he HU to the amp/changer, as you will pull too much power than the HU can handle and damage the HU....just run a new lead … The dc offset option does not turn on the amp. • Copyright © 1999-2021 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved. Well I noticed a pretty significant increase in SQ once I crossed out Road Gear and wrote in Monster! :woot: that means your system won't sound good. installing a remote turn on lead for my amp? Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times. I hooked up my amps this afternoon, and I tried splicing the turn on wire into two, by twisting the wire around the original, and then soddering them together. The Little Dual allows me to use each amp independently, while giving me the option to play through both amps at the same time. to wire a switch to your amp you need wire the 12+ Connection on your amp to the remote on your amp. I never thought about this type of potential problem until I needed to wire up three amps. Has worked dozens of time for me. The remote wire in the back of my radio did not work in my Jeep. For 2 amps there's no problem at all just jumpering the remotes together. Off hand I dont recall the color, but if its supposed to be for "remote turn on lead" then that is true, you do not have to hook that up to anything until you install an amp. Now, I am installing a second amp. Remote Turn On. I think I will try this method, thanks.... Not necessarily. Hence the term "remote turn … the remote wire comes from the back of the HU and goes to each amp to turn it … This is also known as an A/B/Y configuration. JVC KW-HDR720, Audiocontrol EQL, HAT Imagine 5.25 Mids & Morel Maximo tweets, PPI 900.4 Amp, BA 6X9 Rear Fill, Boston G310 sub in 1/2 cu ft sealed -. Some amps have them built in, mostly car stereo amps. Do you just connect the wires to the same remote screw on the amp when you do this? Because of the two fans I added a relay. I had a single amplifier running my sub. but i could be wrong , help i could help Basically, I ended up with a "T" connection. So therefore I need to find a lead to tap into that switches on when the ignition is turned on. i just use a barrier strip as a "distrubution block" and ive used relays. I forgot how much I love that site. Question 1. then you could use almost any switch that you can mount hidden or in dash. Relays are only required if you are going to be using substantial amounts of current (over 200-500mA). Head Unit Has No Remote Wire . quite pointless if u ask me. I am still pretty sure it was the connection, but of course I could be wrong. 10 AMPS on a remote lead? It isn't a bad idea to put a 500mA fuse inline with the remote wire but that is true even if you are only hooking up one amp. JavaScript is disabled. If your connected to constant power for your remote then I would at the least run it form your OEM Remote turn on lead. A relatively common problem is installing an amplifier with a factory head unit or other head unit without a remote turn on wire (or a burned out circuit). Now repeat that process for each of the remaining three relays. so. Looking at the back of the relay, you'll see 3 posts (right, left, bottom) going straight up and down and then 2 others (top, center) going left to right. A Bosch type 30 amp SPDT (single pole double throw) relay is what you need. i've just used the REM lead and split it into 3 leads to turn on 3 amps back when i had my all JL system and had no problems. Watch as we explore the functionality of an amplifier remote turn-on wire. ive ran 2 amps, eq and xover from the HU remote with no trouble. The HU also powers a disc changer and DSP. most times i take the end of the remote wire, and another piece of wire (going to the 2nd amp) and twist them together, put them into the remote input on the amp then secure it. So the amplifier doesn't stay on 24 hours a day you need a way to turn it on and off remotely. Does anybody know why this happen? I went back and checked it and the relay was pretty hot to the touch...given it was 98 stinkin degrees out but still...does that mean anything? No problems. The speaker is connected to the + of the left channel and the - of the right channel. I had run a single remote turn on wire from the head unit to the amplifier and all was well. Then turn the ignition to the ON position and test the same way again. all the remote is, is a 12V current going from the head unit to the amp telling the amp that the HU is on. To check if the connection was faulty, I basically spliced the  original wire back together again and connected it to one amp and then the amp turned on. Even if either had drawn 10 amps, it might draw 10 amps for a fraction of a second and then the fuse on the deck would blow. I am not sure why the power supply would be insufficient, unless the splicing reduces the voltage that much. if you connect the blue wire off your amp to a switched power, you may get a buzzing or humming … The reason for the 2 separate wires is so you can have the antenna down when it's not needed, and still have the amp switched on when you're listening to a CD. The days when amp remotes took a lot of current are loong gone.